Ashley Mayo
There’s a certain madness that drives a person to book a 7,700-mile journey to New Zealand’s northern coast, all for a few rounds of golf.
Or…is there?
The trek from the U.S. to New Zealand is long, but surprisingly easy. One afternoon in early November, my husband and I flew from Nashville, had a quick layover in Los Angeles, and 13 hours later, landed in Auckland. Even after that much time in the air, we felt energized as we began the final leg of our journey — a 90-minute drive from Auckland, New Zealand’s largest city, to Te Arai, the country’s most stunning golf destination.
This was a return trip for us. We’d visited six years earlier to play Tara Iti, a private course that debuted at No. 29 on GOLF Magazine’s ranking of the Top 100 Courses in the World in 2017; it has since climbed up to 20th. We stayed there for two nights, then spent the next two weeks driving from the North Island down to Queenstown, the southern tip of the South Island. We hiked and teed it up from stop to stop. After traveling all the way from New York City, we wanted to maximize the experience.
Six years and two kids later, we decided we could be away from Nashville for a maximum of one week during this second visit and that we wanted the trip to truly feel like a vacation — that meant minimal driving, staying in just one room and filling our days with incredible golf and the restorative powers of nature. Tara Iti was the star of our first trip, and since its resort-style counterpart, Te Arai, had just opened down the road, it felt like an obvious choice for an epic experience.
There’s no way around it: 7,700 miles is a mighty haul for a week-long getaway. But when we stood on the 4th tee at Te Arai’s South Course, staring at a hole that plunges into the Pacific Ocean, any hint of sleep deprivation or travel weariness melted away. This wasn’t just a round of golf; it was an escape into nature’s raw beauty and a chance to engage with golf at its most spectacular.
I’ve endured far more arduous travel for far smaller payoffs.
Te Arai sits just south of Tara Iti and is the brainchild of Tara Iti’s developer and managing director — Ric Kayne and Jim Rohrstaff, respectively. As such, the properties share many of the same qualities, both offering a unique blend of natural beauty, architectural brilliance and a relaxed yet luxurious atmosphere. One big difference between them: Tara Iti is private and Te Arai is a 36-hole resort with a membership component. Te Arai’s North and South courses alternate between being public and private daily to ensure that both courses maintain an exclusive feel while still allowing for public play.
Despite sharing one piece of land, Te Arai’s courses are wildly different. The South Course, a 6,843-yard Coore/Crenshaw design that opened in 2022, captivates with its visual beauty — 14 of its 18 holes are set against the Pacific. It’s not just a feast for the eyes, but also a golfer’s dream in terms of walkability and flow.
The course is challenging but fair, with a focus on shot-making and creativity, all while treating golfers to one breathtaking view after another. This design balances beauty and playability, allowing golfers to soak in the landscape while strategizing about how best to navigate its clever features.
The North Course, a Tom Doak design that opened in October 2023, is a firmer test. The 6,931-yard par-71 layout starts on the Pacific and then heads inland, meandering through a huge bowl before returning to the ocean. While only seven holes sit directly on the Pacific (the South Course has spoiled us!), the course is a strategic masterpiece. With massive fairways that undulate both subtly and dramatically, golfers are constantly challenged to think about angles and approach shots. The green complexes are some of the boldest I’ve ever encountered, requiring a thoughtful approach. The North also has a fantastic halfway house — the fish tacos are a must — available to players on both the 10th and 15th holes.
Links golf almost always comes with beauty but also with a side of chilly temperatures, heavy rain and biting wind. Te Arai, though, defies the norm in that its coastal layouts are grassed entirely with fescue, meaning they offer a true links experience in a comfortable subtropical climate. In the winter (our summer), highs hover around 60 degrees, while summer highs average around 75 degrees. Yep, bliss.
Te Arai’s attention to detail extends far beyond golf into every aspect of the resort. One of the central gathering points at Te Arai is Ric’s, a beautifully appointed open-all-day restaurant that is surrounded by a 2.5-acre Himalayas-style putting green aptly called the Playground. Ric’s isn’t just a place to grab a bite — it’s a social hub. All are welcome, even those who aren’t staying or playing on-site, and the restaurant’s family-style seating and come-as-you-are vibes encourage interaction, creating an atmosphere where it’s easy to meet fellow golfers and locals alike.
Ric’s warm Scandinavian aesthetic permeates throughout the resort. We stayed in a cozy studio cottage that overlooks the driving range. The space’s warm palette, natural materials and elevated essentials helped it exude a calming elegance. I found myself wishing I could buy it all — the bedding, the accent chairs, the mugs — to recreate the magic back home in Nashville.
Over the course of five days, we played four rounds at the South, two at the North and one at Tara Iti. We supplemented those rounds with unforgettable walks on Te Arai Beach, a pristine stretch of coastline where white sand meets the turquoise Pacific. Access to the beach is right off the South’s 18th green. We walked north, past the North Course, until we reached Forestry Beach, renowned among the surf community for its left-hand point breaks, then climbed a hill and walked out onto a point — to our right, we could see both of Te Arai’s courses; to our left, we saw Tara Iti. One short stretch of coastline, three of GOLF’s Top 100 Courses in the World.
The land here is so precious here, it feels nearly untouched. The Kiwis have a long history of deeply respecting their environment, and the team behind Te Arai have embraced that ethos with a strong commitment toward sustainability. We didn’t find single-use plastics anywhere on the property, and water stations with reusable bottles are strategically placed throughout. Even the small details — name tags, room keys, tees, ball markers and pens all made from wood — reflect the resort’s commitment to reducing its environmental footprint while providing a top-tier luxury experience.
With two incredible courses already in play and plenty of land available for a third, the future of Te Arai is bright. The resort continues to grow, recently adding sport courts and a more formal dining option; a full-service spa is also on the way. It’s only a matter of time before it becomes a must-visit destination for golfers and adventure-seekers.
Whether they live 70 miles away, or 7,000.
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